1. Introduction
Muga silk is a wild silk variety indigenous to Assam, India.
The name “Muga” comes from the Assamese word meaning amber (brown/golden) color.
Scientific Name: Antheraea assamensis.
First Described: 1837 by Johann Wilhelm Helfer.
Production: Assam accounts for 99% of the world’s Muga silk production.
2. Historical Significance
Ancient References:
Mentioned by Kautilya as ‘Dukula’, a golden silk fabric from Assam.
Ahom Era (1228–1826 AD):
Reserved for royalty, high officials, and aristocrats.
Used as trade goods and royal gifts.
Royal looms operated by female weavers produced Muga silk exclusively for the palace.
3. Characteristics and Uniqueness
| Feature | Description |
|---|---|
| Natural Golden Color | Shiny, glossy texture with a yellowish-golden hue; no dye required. |
| Durability | Strongest among all natural silks; can outlive its owner. |
| Increasing Lustre | Shine enhances with age and washing. |
| Stain Resistance | Does not retain stains easily. |
| Embroidery Compatibility | Highly amenable to hand and machine embroidery. |
4. Production Process
| Stage | Process Description |
| Feeding | Muga silkworm larvae feed on som (Machilus bombycina) and salu (Litsaea polyantha) leaves. |
| Cocoon Processing | Wild silkworms spin cocoons, which are collected from trees. |
| Degumming | Cocoons are boiled in an alkaline solution made from banana peel or paddy straw ash. |
| Reeling | Silk threads are extracted using a traditional machine called Bhir or Bhawri, operated manually. |
5. Geographical Indication (GI) Tag
| Parameter | Details |
| Product Name | Muga Silk |
| GI Certificate Awarded | 2007 |
| Certification Authority | Central Silk Board of India |
| Assam’s Contribution | 95% of India’s total Muga production |
The GI tag ensures authenticity, preventing unauthorized imitation.
6. Modern Uses
Luxury Fabric: Used in high-end mekhela chador and gamosas.
International Demand: Japanese designers incorporate Muga silk into kimonos and traditional dresses.
7. Research & Scientific Advancements
2015 Study:
Scientists from the Centre for DNA Fingerprinting and Diagnostics, Hyderabad sequenced the Muga silk fibroin gene.
Published in Nature Scientific Reports, highlighting the unique protein structure of Muga silk.
8. Conclusion
Muga silk is Assam’s cultural and economic asset, known for its durability, natural sheen, and historical significance.
The GI tag and research advancements ensure its global recognition and sustainability.
Assam remains the global leader in Muga silk production, preserving this traditional art for future generations.